RETIRO DA COSTIÑA, A DESTINATION TO EAT, DREAM AND BE HAPPY

On the way to the end of the world known by the Romans, in that beautiful crossroads towards Finisterre full of rivers and lagoons and valleys and forests and meadows, on the route of the Atlantic lighthouses, in search of horizons and attractions, between blue and green sunny, in a relatively flat relief, with gentle undulations, dotted with a thousand places with very rich toponyms -A Pereira, Alón, Arantón, Bazar, Castriz, Cícere, Cícere, Bazar, Bazar, Castriz, Fontecada, Freixeiro, Grixoa, Freixeiro, Grixeiro, Grixeiro, Grixeiro, Grixoa, Freixeiro and Alón, Alón, Arantón, Bazar, Castriz, Cícere, Esternande, Fontecada, Freixeiro, Grixoa, Mallón, Montoutoto, Padreiro, Santa Sabiña, Ser or Vilamaior-, in the lands of Xallas, in this exceptional pantry of Galicia Calidade, the gastronomic stars stop over a place of miracles in Santa Comba, in the very center of a magical triangle that could be established between Compostela, Finisterre and La Coruña.

The axis of that deeply human geography, whistling of airs, seseada of sweet accents, flattened of histories of working people here and there, in the country or in the American emigration, signified in Rio de Janeiro, is O Retiro da Costiña. It is an exceptional restaurant, recognized by Michelin, illuminated by two Repsol Suns, an undisputed reference for 85 years as a center of culinary pilgrimage. We are faced with more than eight decades of good food, with roots that go deep into traditional history but that grow openly, to make an evolving cuisine of magical recipes flourish, passed from generation to generation, bringing together popular knowledge, now synthesized more carefully, perhaps more sophisticated, with presentations of difficult geometric balance, design, but always respectful of a unique style supported by the ever-increasing demands of the Costiña Family.

Everything is there: the product of the land, of the rivers and of the sea, the waters prepared for cooking, the contributions of the nouvelle cuisinne, the aggregations of so much traveling, of so much hosting, listening, learning, of the contributions of chef friends: The Arzak, Martín Berasategui, the Torres, Eneko Atxa, Jordi Cruz, Jesús Manzano, the Rial… the Amigos da Cociña Galega, the Grupo Nove… Everything has been aggregating in a Path of Stars and of everlasting friendships.

In 1939, Secundino and Leonor founded an eating house one kilometer from the center of Santa Comba. It was a small stone house next to a road in an area known as O Campallón. But those who went there to eat, especially on fair days, called it “a costiña” because it was on a “little hill”. The business began to go from good to better, the success were the dishes that grandmother Leonor prepared with care. That allowed them to save money and buy a piece of land near downtown. There they opened “Costiña”. And as the place was then located away from the center of the town, they began to call their owners “los del retiro”… And the 80’s arrived. The grandparents decided that Jesús – “Chucho” – and Pastora would be their best followers, and with them came the revulsive, the understanding of the new times and opportunities. After a reform of the establishment, the traditional cuisine moved towards the gastronomic one. Santa Comba was already then a place of passage to Costa da Morte, travelers and families who stopped to eat found a place where they sat at a table with a tablecloth, where they offered very innovative dishes and where, therefore, they explained the ingredients and elaborations, offered labeled wines … The illusion, perseverance and good work made that in a short time the business worked and filled the tables, and new reforms and more culinary audacity. Thus began another of the golden stages of “Costiña”.

Over the years, after giving them solid training, Pastora and “Chucho” incorporated their children to the business. Thus, Manuel worked in the kitchen, and his sister Leonor, “Nochi”, in the dining room. So much passion and effort paid off and in 2008 they received their first Michelin star, an award they have been renewing ever since.

Now, the third generation of the Costiña family continues with Manuel Costiña, the chef who, at just over 40 years of age, surprises with a sincere cuisine, full of passion and with which he transfers a portion of his world in each preparation. With his wife, Ana, in the dining room, they are the head of a perfect team, with a defined style as hosts and connaisseurs, who have raised their knowledge and flavors to the sky of the demanding bonbonery.

In recent months, Manuel Costiña has explored the family’s culinary memories, researched, reviewed papers, and talked extensively with his parents and customers to outline the basic philosophy that gives life to the restaurant’s new menu. The idea germinated in a tribute menu to his ancestors, which he called COSTIÑA85 and which is composed of 16 dishes. Pure magic.

The new gastronomic experience begins, as usual in the establishment, in the back room, between grandmother Leonor’s scales and grandfather Secundino’s workbench. In that sanctuary and in the wine cellar we enjoy the Tartaleta de Real Caviar Amur-Beluga and trout emulsion do río Xallas, the famous Octopus de Roca de Lira (Costa da Morte) in its juice, the steak tartar of Cachena cow matured in sea water or the Anchovy of Santoña and warm oil. It continues with a stew of cod wings and tripe on glass bread and a filloa á pedra, stuffed with cacheira, turnip greens and paprika. In each bite emerges the flavor of the know-how and care of three generations, the bread and salt of lives passionate about what they do, how they do it and for whom they do it.

Already in the dining room, among the stones carved as sculptures by the grandfather stonemason, among paintings by José María Barreiro, the painter of the windows to the sea, arrive and varan in immaculate tablecloths, among fine cutlery, porcelain and selected glassware, tripe from the fair, grandmother Leonor’s “Chícharos”, cured and braised scallops, seafood sauce and Osetra caviar, a splash of crayfish, caldeirada de tes pescados and “mamiña” with potatoes from Coristanco. After the selection of Galician cheeses, a “Caipiroska” is enjoyed, a tribute to the Brazilians of Santa Comba, and two emblematic desserts: Milenium and Costiña whisky cake. All this is accompanied by homemade breads made with local wheat and rye, with artisan butter from the area and Galician extra virgin olive oil made from the Mansa and Brava varieties, and, of course, wines from the most famous wineries.

In the after-dinner lounge, there will be Costiña Chocolat, almond and candied orange delicacies and mandarin and coriander gummies. And coffees and infusions from the best producing areas of the world, and champagnes or 1,200 fantastic references from the library of distillates. More could be better than that.

To recover from so much goodness, 3 kilometers from Costiña Restaurant is located Retiro Costiña Villas, the new space designed as a unique destination in which to enjoy nature, inspired by the Celtic forts, there you can find the serenity and time to enjoy 85 years of great culinary history, an experience and a unique moment. A destination to dream and be happy, very close to where the world ended for the Romans, and where a unique gastronomic breakfast of dozens of delicious dishes awaits.

This is the sky, let’s start by admiring its stars.

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Alberto Barciela , Spanish journalist, is the vice-president of EditoRed.

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